In the cosmetics industry, INCI names and CAS numbers are regarded as the "birth certificates" for new ingredients. These identifiers not only establish the identity of the ingredients but also facilitate their recognition and communication in the global market. This article explores the definitions, application processes, and international market applications of INCI names and CAS numbers, aiming to help cosmetic companies better understand their significance.
INCI NAMES
What is the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI)?
The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) is a globally recognized system for identifying cosmetic ingredients. The names are reviewed and assigned by the International Nomenclature Committee (INC) and are published by the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook. They are also accessible through the online database known as wINCI.
It is important to note that INCI names are not legally binding. Having an INCI name for an ingredient does not mean that the ingredient has been approved for use in cosmetics, nor does it guarantee the ingredient's safety. Conversely, the absence of an INCI name does not imply that the ingredient cannot be used in cosmetics and personal care products.
Note: Access to the full monograph of an ingredient in the wINCI database requires a paid subscription. The monograph includes details such as the ingredient's INCI name, INCI Monograph ID, definition, classification, intended use, and more.
Why is it recommended to apply for an INCI name?
The INCI name is a globally recognized nomenclature for identifying cosmetic ingredients. It is widely used and accepted by most countries, such as those in the European Union, as an official naming standard for cosmetics. Therefore, INCI names are highly recognized and accepted internationally, making them an essential tool for global market access and regulatory compliance.
- European Union
According to the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, cosmetic product labels must include a list of ingredients. The names of the ingredients should be indicated using the common ingredient names listed in the glossary compiled and updated by the European Commission (CosIng database), which includes INCI names.
- United States
According to the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA), the labeling on cosmetic product packaging must include the ingredients using their common or usual names.
Under the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA), the cosmetic product listing registration must also include the names of the product's ingredients.
As stipulated in 21 CFR 701.3 COSMETIC LABELING - Designation of ingredients, if no specific name is designated for a cosmetic ingredient in 21 CFR 701.3 COSMETIC LABELING - Ingredient names established for cosmetic ingredient labeling, preference should be given to the names adopted in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (i.e., INCI names).
- China
Cosmetic ingredients are categorized into two types: new ingredients and existing ingredients. The distinction between new these two types is determined based on whether the ingredient is included in the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC). Following scientific and standardized principles, the IECIC references the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (2018 edition) compiled by PCPC to standardize cosmetic ingredient names using INCI nomenclature.
How to Apply for an INCI Names?
Before initiating the application for an INCI name, applicants should collect the necessary documentation based on the type of ingredients. The application must then be submitted via the PCPC (Personal Care Products Council) website. The processing time for an INCI name application is approximately 3 to 6 months. Therefore, applicants are advised to allocate sufficient time for the application process. The specific steps for the application are as follows:
The INC meetings are typically held in February, April, June, September, and November. Applicants are required to submit their materials to the INC for preliminary review at least 8 weeks prior to the start of the meeting. The INCI name for the ingredient, along with the corresponding monograph, is usually finalized approximately one month after the conclusion of the INC meeting. Additionally, each ingredient is assigned only one INCI name. Starting from January 1, 2024, the application fee for an INCI name will be updated to $1,000 per submission.
When applying for an INCI name, applicants should collect the necessary documentation based on the type of ingredient and submit the application via the PCPC website. Currently, the PCPC system categorizes ingredients into the following eight types. Applicants must prepare and complete the corresponding questionnaire according to the product category.
| Serial Number | Type of Ingredient Application | Corresponding Ingredient Examples |
| 1 | Biotechnology/Animal Cell Culture (including conditioned media) | For example: Sheep Fat Matrix Cell Conditioned Media, Sheep Skin Cell Lysate, etc. |
| 2 | Biotechnology/Animal-Derived Preparations, Plant-Derived Preparations, Others | For example: Noni Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus, etc. |
| 3 | Biotechnology/Fermentation Process | For example: Yeast/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Chlorella Ferment, etc |
| 4 | Biotechnology/Peptides (Gene Recombinant, Solid Phase/Liquid Phase) | For example: Dipeptide-4, Spider Polypeptide-1, etc. |
| 5 | Biotechnology/Plant Cell Culture (including conditioned media) | For example: Salicornia Herbacea Callus Culture Filtrate, Catharanthus Roseus Meristem Cell Culture, etc. |
| 6 | General Chemistry/Inorganic | For example: Sodium Chloride, Dolomite, etc. |
| 7 | General Chemistry/Organic | For example: Glycerin, Linoleic Acid, etc. |
| 8 | Polymers/Silicones | For example: Polypropylene, Dimethicone, etc. |
The detailed requirements for application materials vary depending on the type of ingredient. Generally, the required application materials include: basic information about the ingredient (trade name, molecular formula, CAS number, structural formula, Latin name, etc.), the recommended INCI name, composition, intended use, production process, purity information, and more.
CAS NUMBERS
What is a CAS Number?
The CAS Number, or Chemical Abstracts Service Number, is assigned by the Chemical Abstracts Service, a division of the American Chemical Society. This unique identifier is given to every substance appearing in scientific literature to simplify database searches and avoid confusion caused by multiple names for the same chemical.
CAS Number Verification Principles
A CAS Number must adhere to specific rules, and its validity can be checked using a checksum. The number is divided into three parts by hyphens: the first part has 2 to 6 digits, the second part has 2 digits, and the third part is a single digit checksum. The checksum is calculated by multiplying the last digit of the sequence number (first and second parts) by 1, the second last by 2, and so on, summing all products, and then taking the remainder when divided by 10. For example, for H2O, the CAS number sequence is 7732-18; thus, the checksum is (8×1+1×2+2×3+3×4+7×5+7×6)mod10=105mod10=5. Therefore, water's CAS number is 7732-18-5.
Scope of CAS Numbers
CAS Numbers are required in international trade and chemical registrations, such as EU REACH, Japan CSCL, US TSCA, and China's new chemical substance registration. If a company develops a new substance, it may need to apply for a CAS Number from the American Chemical Society to obtain a unique identifier.
Information Required for CAS Number Application
To apply for a CAS Number, you need to provide detailed information depending on the type of substance. Follows are some examples.
For Well Defined Chemical Compounds：
- Chemical structure diagram (required)
- Systematic chemical name or common names
- Molecular formula
For Polymeric Substances:
- List of monomers/reactants (required)
- Representative structure diagram (required)
- Reaction scheme
- Role of reactants (e.g., polymer backbone, initiator, terminator)
- Structural description of the type of polymer (e.g., graft, block, random)
For Plant and Animal Products:
- Genus/Genus Species of the source (required)
- Method of extraction/chemical processing
- Typical composition of the product
These details ensure the uniqueness and identifiability of the substance, facilitating the effective application and use of the CAS Number.
Global CosIng is dedicated to provide cosmetic companies and ingredient suppliers with an efficient and convenient way to access ingredient and regulatory information. Companies can quickly obtain the latest regulatory updates for over 40,000 ingredients across major markets, including China (including Taiwan), the EU, the US, Canada, ASEAN countries, South Korea, and Japan. This includes information on prohibited, restricted, and safe usage limits of various ingredients. More details can be searched and viewed on the Global CosIng platform.
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